5/25/2004    11,000ft camp to 14,000 camp.
This morning started out a little snowy again. With several inches of new on the ground, the temperatures quickly rebounded from the upper teens / lower 20s into the 30s. As the sun crept its way in to the sky, we were up around 10am and started some oatmeal for breakfast. After several hours of tearing down camp, caching some food, and resting, we were off at 4pm

The weather started to cloud up and it started to snow during the climb. The endless climb up Motorcycle hill was probably the most brutal of the day. My glasses were completely fogged up from the intense heat my body was generating. After a brief rest at the top, we trudged up to Squirrel Point (named after a red squirrel begging for food) and up the steep slopes to Windy Point. The snow was falling steadily, and the winds were 5-10mph. We worked our way around Windy Point at 8:20pm and took a brief rest where we cached our food.

The night time chill was starting to fill the air as we neared camp. I could hear several small avalanches throughout the day as the unstable snow changed consistency from the sun. In the distance, we could see camp, which was a very welcome sight. We arrived at camp at 10:30 exhausted and ready for rest. No one was really in the mood for cooking dinner, so I scarfed down some gorp, As I headed to my tent, I saw Mt. Foraker bathed in alpenglow with the clouds below bumping their way across the horizon. It was 11:30pm, and although I wasn't tired, I headed to bed.

5/26    14,000ft camp - Rest Day
Today we were up a little after 10am after nighttime lows below zero. The sun heated out camp in to the upper 20s very quickly after some morning snow flurries.

5/28    Day Carry to 16,200
Our task today was to take some food and supplies to 16,200ft. Although I was worried about climbing in the midday heat (it was 111° in my tent yesterday) the temperatures turned out to be perfect. Scott's case of mild AMS kept us at a reasonable pace, and I felt exceptionally strong. About one third of the way up, Scott felt very weak and tired. He turned around at about 15K and worked his way back. Doug and I continued up to the fixed lines without interruption, clipped in and continued to the top. The winds were not too bad, but we became cold quickly. After burying our supplies, we headed back down in the light fog. After down climbing below the fixed lines, we glissaded down to camp. The weather down below was still sunny and warm. I was tempted to ski over to the Edge of the World, but with my ski boots off and tucked away, I figured I'd save it for tomorrow. Despite being unable to sleep, I stayed in my bag and missed the sunset.